Roc Stompa Steering Dampener rebuild tips

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steve

Roc Stompa Steering Dampener rebuild tips

Postby steve » Thu Sep 02, 2010 10:37 pm

My steering dampener sprung a leak at the base of the shaft where the arm goes. Apparently a common fault which they have rectified with an oversize o-ring. Since it was off, time for a rebuild.

There is a service kit which as I understand contains a set of o-rings for $25. I'm just too mean to fork out that much and went to my local gasket shop instead and bought all the o-rings for $3.20.

Part numbers were:-

1 x N214
1 x N019
2 x N610
1 x 20N060
4 x N008

Tips when disassembling:-

To remove arm disassemble top section of dampener completely.

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steve

Re: Roc Stompa Steering Dampener rebuild tips

Postby steve » Thu Sep 02, 2010 10:51 pm

Flip it over and place it so either side of dampener body makes good contact with solid surface and all of shaft/wiper unit can be pushed out. Heat up the arm and shaft joint to release any loctite, gently punch the shaft out of the arm using a suitable pin punch.

You can see where some ham fisted prick tryed to pry mine off and did some cosmetic damage to housing and shaft, be careful as this damage could have easily been more than cosmetic.

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When removing valve body from top cover loosen detent grub screw and be careful not to loose the detent ball.

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Roc Stompa uses 15 weight fork oil as standard, and says you can change to heavier weight if you require more dampening. I only had ATF on hand so just used that, it is too thin but is a hell of a lot stiffer than the 3 year old fork oil that was in there.

The dampeners operation is completely different now, I can clearly feel that it doesnt damp towards centre and there is now a marked difference between the soft and hard settings. The valve body is also easier to operate, I will be doing regular rebuilds on my dampener from now on.

steve

Re: Roc Stompa Steering Dampener rebuild tips

Postby steve » Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:04 pm

No I dont have any other numbers.

Why dont you do what I did and strip it down so you can take your old o-rings to match, just make sure you use a thicker o-ring on the bottom of shaft where it leaked.


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